At MFW: Boho Bliss
“Bohemian beachcomber done luxe” was how Emilio Pucci designer Peter Dundas reportedly introduced his new Spring/Summer 2011 collection. Back in the day, Pucci was associated with hypnotic, neon, eye-popping graphics that were fun, fashionable and great with a pair of white boots. Nowadays, Dundas is mellowing the Italian brand out with muted jewel tones and delicate, ruffled cuts. Trading the structured mini for a romantic, floor-length tent dress, Dundas stayed true to his vintage-inspired roots, all the while stamping his distinctive name on the collection.
Natalia Vodianova hit the stage today in Roberto Cavalli's first look: a grungy, glittering hippie dress a lá Shakira, with side cutouts and a plunging neckline. Unlike many of the lines showing for SS 2011, Roberto Cavalli's collection was one of the most cohesive; as if he somehow managed to incorporate a piece of each look into the next. There was no pop of unexpected color, no random try at a suit or a long coat. Instead, he played up romance with femme frills and subtle tailoring—something we all know he is good at. Dresses were interwoven between tops and long knitted pants; however, the shapes were very similar, making it nearly impossible to notice the diversity. A stylish update on the groupie look, leather vests laced up to the neck, gave off a sexy, rocker vibe with matching, laced-up leather pants. If Cavalli is scared of anything, we know it cannot be fringe or skin—two things that easily defined his subtly sexy SS line.
“I want to go back to that free-spirit, bohemian, gypsy attitude,” designer Massimiliano Giornetti said about his Spring/Summer collection for Salvatore Ferragamo. Boho isn't normally a word you associate with the brand known for luxury leather in staple styles such as loafers, slingbacks and even a driving shoe. If anything, Ferragamo is Italy's attempt at prep, not at flower power. However, Gionetti managed to somehow speak the ‘70s language in a very Ferragamo way, keeping the cuts simple and the lines clean. The closing pieces, such as the one pictured above, were looser and less constricted, a more glamorous reinvention of the fashions of the Romani. Nevertheless, the bulk of the show was in muted yellow, mustard and the occasional baby blue. Although it was very vintage inspired, it's hard to peg the term “gypsy” on a line that features two-piece suits, cocktail dresses and trench coats.