Oh, Olivier!
He has found himself the darling of the fashion world, the master of a craft that few can control and many envy. His clothes have been deemed breathtaking, intelligent, the haute of haute couture, and he, fashion’s king. Olivier Theyskens is, needless to say, in a class by himself.
Fear not: The designer’s work will be soon visible in all its glory. This month, from Assouline Publishing, comes a coffee table book of Theyskens’ work, assembled with photographer Julien Claessens and edited by Sally Singer. Entitled, Olivier Theyskens: The Other Side of the Picture, it will feature shots of the fashion world, and all that goes on within it, that ordinary mortals might never get to see.
The Belgian-born designer has wanted to create haute couture—not just clothes, or dresses, but couture— since the age of 7. He took the first step in that direction by enrolling in the École Nationale Superieure des Arts Visuels de la Cambre to study when he was 18; less than two years later he left to start his own label. Not long thereafter, Theyskens landed his first big gig as creative director for Rochas in 2002; when his initial collection debuted the following spring, he was called “nothing short of magnificent” by style.com and widely revered by the fashion flock (he had already made a name for himself when in 1998 Madonna wore one of his early goth-like dresses to the Oscars; he was now, officially, on the map). When the house of Rochas shuttered in July of 2006, just three years later, Theyskens soon found himself the artistic director of Nina Ricci. Continued acclaim was his, only to find him then leaving that post in the fall of last year.
This is a man who has been known to say he “would like to stop global vulgarity”. Theyskens is an incredibly prolific designer, churning out 100 pieces alone for Rochas’ spring 2007 collection. He bowled over the fashion world last year again with his Fall 2009 collection, full of sheer flourishes, beading of the most exacting quality, necklines cut in a most unexpected way, and sumptuous gowns that will surely end up in a museum at the end of their wearing. Although it’s not certain yet where he’ll land, Theyskens will surely not be without a home for long, whether it’s one of his own making or under someone else’s roof.
Tagged in: nina ricci, assouline, olivier theyskens, haute couture, fashion designer,
