PFW: Haider Ackermann, Viktor & Rolf, Acne Studios S/S 14
Over the weekend, the S/S 14 Paris runways featured playful designs such as schoolgirl knife pleat skirts, oversized mohair sweaters and denim sailor dresses. Metallics, bright blues, yellows and reds were accents to white, black and navy.
Boxy tailored jackets and cigarette pants in shimmery metallic were key points of the Haider Ackermann S/S 14 collection, with multicolored crystals embellishing menswear pieces. These highly tailored pieces were a contrast to long, flowy dresses and skirts in tulle and pleated silk. Layers of sheerness were highly wearable when paired with the metallic and satin fabrics, but sheer tops worn alone without jackets would be a bit of a problem in the real world. Minimal black jumpsuits were sleek and simple stunners, and a black off-the-shoulder dress was sexy with the deep V in back and tight sleeves giving a new silhouette.
Sexy schoolgirls dominated the Viktor & Rolf runway, with an abundance of knee-length navy and plaid skirts with knife pleats, culottes, collegiate sweaters and crested blazers. Long voluminous shorts were a standout paired with the aforementioned sweaters and jackets. A favorite look was a crisp white shirt, complete with spikes on the collar, and a tartan skirt. Sleeveless leather jackets and origami-like pleated dresses rounded out the S/S 14 collection in a way that no Catholic schoolgirl has ever gotten away with wearing to class.
Workwear-inspired styles such as denim made a strong showing in the Acne Studios S/S 14 collection. Overall, the runway had a definitive Swedish style with clean, simple lines. There was a mariner theme with nautical stripes and a bright yellow peacoat, and even an anchor-print pantsuit. Colorful mohair sweaters were oversized, giving a playful, cozy feel, and breezy white cotton jackets resembled something one might wear in a lab. The designer opted for unique takes on leather, with a dress with vents almost like a paper ornament.
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