Fall 2012 was a breakthrough season for Donatella Versace. The iconic designer has accomplished an incredible amount during her tenure so far, but now, she has finally face her demons, as reported by Style.com. The demons refered to her brother Gianni Versace’s tragic death and his last dark, moody yet modern couture collection that was never further explored, until now.
The Versace presentation at Milan Fashion Week 2012 revitalized the gothic motif from Gianni’s final collection with all all-black palette that elevated the darkness with spurts of orange and yellow. Crucifixes in studded arrangements, leather appliqués and thorny prints emerged on structured hourglass and body conscious silhouettes of corseted sheaths, sleek coatdresses, pencil skirts and fitted turtlenecks.
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Modern as the ready-to-wear pieces were in leather, Donatella added elements of piecing, seaming and chainmail that was reminiscent of armor while high necks and long sleeves moved toward a clerical feel, both so appropriately illustrating the gothic theme. She also revisited the built-out hip silhouette from her Spring Couture 2012 collection. This time around, the structured shape made sense on the armor-inspired minidresses and sheaths and complemented the necklines.
The motif translated onto oversized clutches through studding details and crucifix appliqués that match ensembles. Chainmail straps made for a tough, edgy touch on crocodile embossed envelope styles. Knee-high boots with a solid triangular heel appeared in different variations and completed most of the looks in the collection. Donatella created fishnet boots that appeared to be leggings in some cases, but also took the silhouette to leather options and crucifix-adorned numbers.
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Donatella’s courage was on cue as part of the dark vibe was harnessed from Rooney Mara’s resilient character from “The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo.” The models all sported the high bang hairstyle that Mara is known for, as well as charcoal eyelids, but it was more glammed up in typical Versace fashion. The collection with multiple layers of shadowy complexity is definitely a proud moment for the fashion house and a worthy tribute to Gianni.