Versus, the diffusion line of Versace, is feeling angst this Fall 2012, which is a bit unusual considering the brand’s sporty history. Spring’s collection was centered on basketball players and cheerleaders, after all. Apparently Donatella Versace isn’t in a ra-ra mood anymore, and neither is her co-creative director Christopher Kane. He looked to Camden this season, London’s punk and hipster borough, for a bit of an edge and then amplified it with some 1960s psychedelic vibes. “She’s a rebellious, tough, angry, modern girl,” he said to Style.com.
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The presentation shown at Milan Fashion Week had an offbeat palette of black, wine, royal blue, sky blue, fuchsia and acid yellow. Kane dove right into the funk by creating fashionably disheveled details on body conscious and minidress silhouettes. Long, sporty blazers and sleeved dresses received panels of contrasting leather on sleeves and pockets. Fitted leather pants, wool jackets and dresses with flouncy skirts were held together with black leather lacing that usually ran the length of the pant leg or sleeves. T-shirts were completely slashed up and paired with super-slouchy tie-dyed jeans. Long-sleeved minidresses were also tie-dyed and deconstructed with Kane’s slashing methods. Wallpaper print motifs of floral medallions were layered over asymmetrical lace panels that only featured one sleeve.
Kane balanced the angst with feminine moments that seemed subtler against the more hard-edge elements. A fuchsia sequin turtleneck minidress was paired with a lattice coat. Diaphanous chiffon dresses appeared soft and sexy. Solid minidresses with puffed sleeves were as simple as Kane went.
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The collection sported some major fur moments as well that showcased bold, psychedelic shades. Royal blue fur made for wild sleeves on a coat, while a fuchsia fur coat was borderline hippy. Most notable was a wine-colored oversized chubby style that was paired with matching leather ankle-zipped pants and boots. It was Camden at its finest.
It was a fun lineup of ensembles from the Versus team that was not only refreshing, but a bit daring compared to their previous collections. With an edginess that is on-point for this season, there will be a whole new set of fans.