For Spring 2012, several designers dived into the wonders of the ocean for inspiration. At Paris Fashion Week, Chanel, Versace and Givenchy all took note of the sea’s colors, textures and creatures. But Givenchy’s interpretation proved more subtle than the rest.
Ricardo Tisci’s marine-themed collection took a minimalist approach, with sharp lines, blazers with bold shoulders, understated single soles shoe and even a shark tooth here and there. The palette remained modest as well, with pale pink, nude, white, sandy tan, army green and shimmery black. His Spring line was possibly one of Tisci’s most accessible yet, according to Style.com.
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Clean tailoring manifested itself in proper collared button-ups with shirttails, oversized blazers and vests, sleek leggings, pencil skirts, and satin shorts. It may sound simple, but Tisci spiced things up with exotic materials and silhouette details. Infused into the trims and lapels of blazers, he chose eel, shark or stingray skin for textural contrast. Leggings were no ordinary leggings, but rather skin-hugging like a surfer’s wetsuit, while pencil skirts featured chain harness overalls and flowing wispy tails.
Creating sculptural looks that evoked seaweed, dresses and jackets exhibited structural vertical ruffles, which started at the collar and draped down to the waistline to form peplum silhouettes. Tisci varied the ruffled styles by changing their hues, including sheer white and army green khaki, or adding all-over dazzling sequins.
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Accessories and footwear had the most obvious oceanic influence, displaying a shark tooth motif. In accordance with the polished looks, Tisci mostly kept the accessories to a minimum. Models were styled with simple chain belts, eel skin pouches and – the main accessory focus – an oversized shark tooth pendant.
The collection’s heeled sandals, although single sole, had their own textural flair. Exotic materials trickled down into the footwear in trims or simple skinny vamp straps. Counters and set-back thin heels were created from a solid plastic mold and finished with an exaggerated metal tip, while shark tooth clasps completed the ankle straps.
Calling to mind a time of understated luxury, Tisci’s Spring vision was cool, chic and just what the doctor ordered after seasons of nonstop sexy.