Coming off a dark Fall season featuring menswear, baroque prints and Fabergé eggs, Olivier Rousteing switched gears for Balmain Resort 2013. Well, slightly. Gone were the eggs and the deep palette, but the menswear silhouettes and outerwear are here to stay for at least another season.
This time around, Rousteing looked to Miami and its Latin influences for Balmain’s impeccably edgy collection. There were noticeable traces of the beach city in the pale colors of mint, blue and yellow; the oversize shapes (Miami Vice anyone?); and the abstract geometric patterns and stripes. While Miami was part of his focus, “fun, happiness and hope” were among his talking points, as reported by Style.com, and the collection definitely projects this upbeat vision.
The oversized shapes of Miami harmonize nicely with Balmain’s aesthetic, as there were similar silhouettes from the previous season. Resort’s version focused on elongated blazers with broad shoulders and cuffed up sleeves. Naturally, they were combined with relaxed fitting, cuffed trousers to exude the South-Beach-meets-New-Wave essence. Fitted skinny pants in black and white patterns embodied a more structured figure with robust jackets.
Contradicting the feel of menswear, dresses, skirts and jumpers were short as ever. Rousteing got excited with strapless, sleeveless corset leather dresses that flared out with volume, as well as three-quarter sleeve minidresses. Both were belted at the waistline. His leather jumper was buttoned all the way up to the throat and embellished with contrasting buttons and stitching, evoking a hint of utility.
The collection’s most impressive minidress and blazer were crafted from basket-weave raffia, an unusual material choice for apparel. But with his edgy touch, Rousteing transformed the beach tote fabric into chic.