Gen Y is the new consumer to target
Luxury fashion is getting shaken up with a whole new vibe for a whole new crowd. Designers are increasingly targeting Gen Y with new themes made to attract the younger generation.
Strutting down the New York runways are styles such as a patent leather double-breasted coat, tweed suits exhibiting metallics and leather silhouettes swapped for silk.
“New customers are getting into luxury fashion in a way they weren't before the recession,” said Ed Jay, senior vice president of American Express Business Insights.
Faithful consumers who purchased designer items before the troubled economic times may by loyal, but they are not, said Jay, buying at the level they used to. Gen Y members, on the other hand, encouraged by the ease of e-commerce sites, are ramping up their purchasing.
“Newcomers don't spend as much per ticket, but there are more of them,” he said.
The Row, fronted by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, reaches out to women – particularly the younger ones – in search of clothing for special occasions but not after the usual eveningwear. The collection features chenille jackets or cashmere tops with chiffon underlaying, often combined with a long skirt.
Ken Downing, fashion director of Neiman Marcus, said that fur, a popular catwalk trend, could lure younger fashionistas.
“We are seeing a lot of mink, a lot of textural mink. You thought of mink before as your grandmother's but this is through a new lens. ... Mink is something a lot of women don't have,” Downing declared.
But fur has been updated, used more to accent a sweater or skirt instead of a full fur coat – a more youthful and interesting style. “Fur continues to modernize into a sportswear item,” he said.
Marc Jacobs exhibited his designs for New York Fashion Week in a mystical forestlike setting. As if in a fairy tale, models appeared like characters, strutting in oversized fur hats and large-buckle shoes. A Victorian influence was displayed in dresses’ bustles and a faux fur coat embellished with sequins and a snowflake look.
Tucked among the more dramatic ensembles were stunning outwear items and stylish cocktail apparel, boasting rich jewel hues of purple and green with a helping of sparkling silver. Jacobs delivered a collection that exhibits his usual originality and flair, with clothing that actress Rose Byrne of “Bridesmaids” termed to WWD as “a kind of Grimm's fairy tale,” “Tim Burton-y,” and ''unique and beautiful.”
Donna Karan created a show that was womanly even though exhibiting top hats and tails. The first ensemble was a gray-and-black pinstripe jacket over a white taffeta bodysuit that appeared like a button-down top.
Other looks included long coats with robust shoulders and lapel collars and a riding coat completed with pinstripe mohair pants. Skirts and dresses featured long lengths and sharp knife pleats, while tops appeared slim and fitted without the frills. The final look was pure femininity: a scarlet-red, stretch-satin evening number.
For Fall, Carolina Herrera concentrated on high, interesting necklines to showcase the models’ faces rather than their bust or legs. The focus was kept high with details such as an organza scarf on a navy wool suit, a fox-fur collar over a tweed suit and a lilac cashmere printed scarf paired with a purple-wool jacket.
While emphasizing an architectural aesthetic over frills, Herrera easily transitioned between the two styles. The final number was a bright pink ballgown with a folded fabric bodice, while another critical daytime outfit was a navy turtleneck with flat lambswool and indigo pencil skirt. Also making their way down the runway were a number of abstract-patterned evening gowns.
Tommy Hilfiger’s show displayed a sporty, elegant aesthetic, displayed in double-breasted coats, suede field jackets and scarf-print silk dresses. All of this was featured amid a fancy set complete with a brick-path runway, park benches and ivy-covered walls.
“The whole message is town and country,” Hilfiger said during a pre-show interview with WWD. “There are country tweeds and a mix of suedes, leather and quilting. It sort of looks like hunting, but it's not hunting foxes, it's hunting for fun.”
An uptown vibe was shown through cashmere, intricate details like braiding and a palette of plum, Dijon yellow, navy, dark green and burgundy. In addition to the military notes, Hilfiger went with some popular runway trends, such as high necklines for an upward focus, long gloves and touchable materials.
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