London Fashion Week Fall 2012: Acne
Acne has been known for its cool denim since its inception in 1996, but after each runway season, the cliché-less ready-to-wear continues to grow as the design concepts gets stronger. The always-directional aesthetic can be credited to creative director and co-founder Jonny Johansson, who loves looking for odd inspiration and manipulating it in his crafty ways. That was indeed part of the formula for Acne’s Fall 2012 collection shown at London Fashion Week, as Style.com reports that Johansson took inspiration from three body-obsessed artists. The designer married concepts from photographer André Kertész, who is known for his distorted images, erotic sculptor Hans Bellmer and painter Hanneline Røgeberg.
Upon the first run through, it doesn’t seem to be the most wearable. It was actually quite intimidating with its clinical feel, distorted detailing, and stiff, boxy silhouettes. But uncertainty is usually the first feeling with avant-garde styling and, once you get past it, Johansson’s exceptional work was intriguing.
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The designer brought together unconventional shapes using imaginative materials and abstract puzzle prints but maintained a balance by keeping proportions controlled. Boxy, squared coats made of shiny shoe leather created aloft arms but Johansson addressed the shape with thick, oversized belts to cinch the waist, a technique he used throughout the collection. Loose trousers seemed to be slung around the hips, thanks to a built-in girdle, and were paired with cropped jackets and tucked-in tops. Dresses were pieced together with folded shapes of leather and layered over knits and flesh-toned fabric. Sweaters had puffy sleeves that were minimized with belts and paired with loose but straight-legged pants to tidy up the silhouette.
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There were some easier, more easily digestible looks, especially when compared to the extremely forward ones. Johansson offered blouses paired with midi skirts, a textured turtleneck combined with oversized pocket-flap narrow trousers, and cocoon dresses layered over wax-finished leather pants.
Johansson’s cutting-edge ensembles aren’t for everyone. But then, he’s not trying to appeal to the masses. He knows that those that do appreciate his uniqueness will have no problem walking around the city in a slick leather oversized coat.
This article was contributed by Annette Tang of the VersaStyle. You can follow Annette and her fashion adventures on Twitter at @theversastyle.
Tagged in: london, runway, fall 2012, london fashion week, acne, ready-to-wear, london fashion week fall 2012, jonny johansson,
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